id: 98504
accession number: 1918.225
share license status: CC0
url: https://clevelandart.org/art/1918.225
updated: 2022-02-12 10:00:07.337000
Velvet with gold discs, late 1200s or earlier. Iran, probably Tabriz, Ilkhanid period. Silk, gilt-metal thread; brocaded velvet; overall: 30.5 x 20.6 cm (12 x 8 1/8 in.); mounted: 34.9 x 25.4 cm (13 3/4 x 10 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Dudley P. Allen Fund 1918.225
title: Velvet with gold discs
title in original language:
series:
series in original language:
creation date: late 1200s or earlier
creation date earliest: 1200
creation date latest: 1299
current location:
creditline: Dudley P. Allen Fund
copyright:
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culture: Iran, probably Tabriz, Ilkhanid period
technique: silk, gilt-metal thread; brocaded velvet
department: Textiles
collection: T - Islamic
type: Velvet
find spot:
catalogue raisonne:
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CREATORS
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measurements: Overall: 30.5 x 20.6 cm (12 x 8 1/8 in.); Mounted: 34.9 x 25.4 cm (13 3/4 x 10 in.)
state of the work:
edition of the work:
support materials:
inscriptions:
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CURRENT EXHIBITIONS
title: 2000 Years of Silk Weaving
opening date: 1944-01-09T05:00:00
2000 Years of Silk Weaving. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (March 18-April 16, 1944).
title: Luxuriance: Silks from Islamic Lands, 1250-1900
opening date: 2013-05-14T04:00:00
Luxuriance: Silks from Islamic Lands, 1250-1900. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (May 14, 2013-June 23, 2014).
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LEGACY EXHIBITIONS
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PROVENANCE
(Bacri Freres, Paris, France, sold to the Cleveland Museum of Art)
date: ?–1918
footnotes:
citations:
The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH
date: 1918–
footnotes:
citations:
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fun fact:
digital description:
wall description:
Silk velvet with rich pile is one of the most opulent and prestigious fabrics, especially when embellished with gold thread. This is one of the earliest known velvets. A 1295 inventory of Pope Boniface VIII includes "a piece of red Tartar velvet with gold discs," which probably refers to this velvet pattern. It is attributed to Iran, possibly in Tabriz where Italian agents resided and could have provided the transfer of silk-velvet technology to Italy. Although the origin of velvet is uncertain, silk velvet with an extra silk pile warp was probably developed in a silk weaving country such as Iran. Inventive Iranian weavers may have developed it during the 1200s or earlier; they are acclaimed for producing the most colorful velvets ever during the 1500s and 1600s.
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RELATED WORKS
id: 98591
Velvet Fragment in Two Pieces, 1300s. Iran or Iraq, 14th century. Velvet, lancé, silk and Cyprian gold around silk core; overall: 27.9 x 17.8 cm (11 x 7 in.); mounted: 35.6 x 28.3 cm (14 x 11 1/8 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Dudley P. Allen Fund 1918.30.b
relationship:
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CITATIONS
Wardwell, Anne E. "Panni Tartarici: Eastern Islamic Silks Woven with Gold and Silver (13th and 14th Centuries)." In Islamic Art III, 95-173. New York: The Islamic Art Foundation, 1989.
page number: Mentioned: pp. 95-173; Reproduced: Fig. 57, 77
url:
Hoeniger, Cathleen S. “Cloth of Gold and Silver: Simone Martini's Techniques for Representing Luxury Textiles.” Gesta 30 (2): 154–62.
page number: p. 160
url:
Mackie, Louise W. Symbols of Power: Luxury Textiles from Islamic Lands, 7th-21st Century. Cleveland; New Haven: Cleveland Museum of Art; Yale University Press, 2015.
page number: Reproduced and Mentioned: P. 228, fig. 6.13
url:
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IMAGES
web: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1918.225/1918.225_web.jpg
print: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1918.225/1918.225_print.jpg
full: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1918.225/1918.225_full.tif