{
"data": {
"id": 114589,
"accession_number": "1934.206",
"share_license_status": "CC0",
"tombstone": "Coif, late 1500s. England, Elizabethan Period, late 16th century. Silk, gold and silver thread, sequins, padding, linen; embroidery; overall: 21 x 42.2 cm (8 1/4 x 16 5/8 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Dudley P. Allen Fund, 1934.206",
"current_location": null,
"title": "Coif",
"creation_date": "late 1500s",
"creation_date_earliest": 1580,
"creation_date_latest": 1599,
"artists_tags": [],
"culture": [
"England, Elizabethan Period, late 16th century"
],
"technique": "Silk, gold and silver thread, sequins, padding, linen; embroidery",
"support_materials": [],
"department": "Textiles",
"collection": "Textiles",
"type": "Embroidery",
"measurements": "Overall: 21 x 42.2 cm (8 1/4 x 16 5/8 in.)",
"dimensions": {
"overall": {
"height": 0.21,
"height_inch": 8,
"height_inch_fraction": 0.25,
"width": 0.422,
"width_inch": 16,
"width_inch_fraction": 0.625
}
},
"state_of_the_work": null,
"edition_of_the_work": null,
"copyright": null,
"inscriptions": [],
"exhibitions": {
"current": [
{
"id": 312341,
"title": "The Silver Jubilee Exhibition",
"description": "The Silver Jubilee Exhibition. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (June 23-September 28, 1941).",
"opening_date": "1941-06-23T04:00:00"
},
{
"id": 344792,
"title": "Only for Beauty? (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115",
"description": "Only for Beauty? (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (December 8, 2014-December 7, 2015).",
"opening_date": "2014-12-08T05:00:00"
},
{
"id": 343659,
"title": "Art of Embroidery in Late Medieval Europe (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115",
"description": "Art of Embroidery in Late Medieval Europe (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (December 19, 2020-April 11, 2021).",
"opening_date": "2020-12-19T05:00:00"
}
],
"legacy": []
},
"provenance": [],
"find_spot": null,
"related_works": [
{
"id": 114624,
"description": "Forehead Cloth, late 1500s. England, Elizabethan Period, late 16th century. Silk, gold and silver thread, sequins, padding, linen; embroidery; overall: 16.8 x 38.7 cm (6 5/8 x 15 1/4 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Dudley P. Allen Fund, 1934.231",
"relationship": null
}
],
"former_accession_numbers": [],
"did_you_know": null,
"early_education_description": null,
"artlens_description": null,
"description": "According to Elizabethan embroidery scholar Jacqui Carey, construction of this woman\u2019s coif is typical of the period, as is its design. The coif is a single piece of embroidered plain weave linen, cut in the usual way. The embroidery features pomegranate, honeysuckle, rose, carnation and acorn motifs set within stylized undulating stems and foliage. Most of the embroidery is worked with two distinct types of metal thread (thin metal strips wrapped around a silk core)\u2014gilt thread and silver thread which has tarnished to black. Black silk thread also is used for the embroidery. Nine different stitches are used on the coif, including Elizabethan blanket stitch (variation three), Elizabethan ladder with filling, chain stitch, Elizabethan double Vandyke/twisted chain, Elizabethan plaited braid stitch (standard version), Elizabethan Ceylon stitch, Elizabethan trellis stitch, corded double detached buttonhole, and Elizabethan spider\u2019s web. Many of the motifs are padded underneath the embroidery, likely with wool.",
"external_resources": {
"wikidata": [
"https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q80007372"
],
"internet_archive": [
"https://archive.org/details/clevelandart-1934.206-coif"
]
},
"citations": [
{
"citation": "Underhill, Gertrude. \"Old Embroideries in the Museum: Three English Embroideries.\" The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art 21, no. 8 (1934).",
"page_number": "p. 123-25",
"url": "www.jstor.org/stable/25137641"
},
{
"citation": "The Cleveland Museum of Art. The Cleveland Museum of Art Handbook. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1958.",
"page_number": "Mentioned and Reproduced: cat. no. 264",
"url": "https://archive.org/details/CMAHandbook1958/page/n55"
},
{
"citation": "Nguyen, Tricia Wilson. \u201cScandal and Imprisonment: Gold Spinners of 17th Century England.\u201d In Hidden Stories/ Human Lives: Proceedings of the Textile Society of America 17th Biennial Symposium, October 15-17, 2020. (2021).",
"page_number": "",
"url": "https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/1155/"
}
],
"url": "https://clevelandart.org/art/1934.206",
"images": {
"annotation": null,
"web": {
"url": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1934.206/1934.206_web.jpg",
"width": "900",
"height": "519",
"filesize": "310758",
"filename": "1934.206_web.jpg"
},
"print": {
"url": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1934.206/1934.206_print.jpg",
"width": "3400",
"height": "1962",
"filesize": "4397286",
"filename": "1934.206_print.jpg"
},
"full": {
"url": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1934.206/1934.206_full.tif",
"width": "5406",
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},
"alternate_images": [
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"date_created": "2020-06-16T15:05:59",
"annotation": ""
},
{
"web": {
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"print": {
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"width": "3400",
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"filesize": "6843562"
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"full": {
"url": "https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1934.206/1934.206_alt1_full.tif",
"width": "5000",
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"date_created": "2005-02-09T16:40:54",
"annotation": ""
}
],
"creditline": "Dudley P. Allen Fund",
"image_credit": null,
"sketchfab_id": null,
"sketchfab_url": null,
"gallery_donor_text": null,
"athena_id": 114589,
"creators": [],
"legal_status": "accessioned",
"accession_date": "1934-06-21T00:00:00",
"sortable_date": 1580,
"date_added_to_oa": null,
"date_text": "late 1500s",
"collapse_artists": false,
"on_loan": false,
"recently_acquired": false,
"record_type": "object",
"conservation_statement": "This plain weave linen coif is embroidered with both silver and gold thread. The gold thread was laid down in parallel rows and couched (stitched) to the silk substrate with silk thread. The core of the metal thread is cream silk. Wound around the core like a barber pole is a thin, narrow strip of either silver or gold metal. The darker areas seen here are embroidered in silver which has tarnished over time; the gold does not tarnish and retains its luster.",
"has_conservation_images": true,
"cover_accession_number": null,
"is_nazi_era_provenance": false,
"impression": null,
"alternate_titles": [
"Embroidered Cap Piece"
],
"is_highlight": false,
"updated_at": "2026-05-29 06:00:51.946000"
}
}