id: 125238
accession number: 1947.2
share license status: CC0
url: https://clevelandart.org/art/1947.2
updated: 2023-01-10 22:39:08.176000
Chasuble with Orphrey Band, 1500–1520. England, London (embroidery) and Italy, Florence (velvet), early 16th century. Silk, gold thread, sequins; appliqué, embroidery: couching stitches Velvet: solid pile, silk; embroidery: or nué (shaded gold); overall: 122.5 x 74 cm (48 1/4 x 29 1/8 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Gift of Walter C. and Alvin W. Littwitz in memory of their father, Max Littwitz 1947.2
title: Chasuble with Orphrey Band
title in original language:
series:
series in original language:
creation date: 1500–1520
creation date earliest: 1500
creation date latest: 1520
current location:
creditline: Gift of Walter C. and Alvin W. Littwitz in memory of their father, Max Littwitz
copyright:
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culture: England, London (embroidery) and Italy, Florence (velvet), early 16th century
technique: Silk, gold thread, sequins; appliqué, embroidery: couching stitches Velvet: solid pile, silk; embroidery: or nué (shaded gold)
department: Textiles
collection: T - Ecclesiastical
type: Embroidery
find spot:
catalogue raisonne:
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CREATORS
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measurements: Overall: 122.5 x 74 cm (48 1/4 x 29 1/8 in.)
state of the work:
edition of the work:
support materials:
inscriptions:
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CURRENT EXHIBITIONS
title: Draped in Splendor: Renaissance Textiles and the Church
opening date: 2003-09-07T00:00:00
Draped in Splendor: Renaissance Textiles and the Church. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (September 7, 2003-September 26, 2004).
title: Only for Beauty? (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115
opening date: 2014-12-08T05:00:00
Only for Beauty? (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (December 8, 2014-December 7, 2015).
title: Art of Embroidery in Late Medieval Europe (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115
opening date: 2020-12-19T05:00:00
Art of Embroidery in Late Medieval Europe (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (December 19, 2020-April 11, 2021).
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LEGACY EXHIBITIONS
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PROVENANCE
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fun fact:
digital description:
wall description:
The English adopted a simpler style of embroidering vestments suitable for mass production around 1500. Isolated motifs, often floral, were embroidered on plain velvet, as in this ecclesiastical chasuble.
The orphrey, or embroidered band, in the center depicts Saints Peter, John the Evangelist, and Andrew, identified by their names and attributes (top to bottom). Most of the surface is covered with gold thread sewn down by silk thread passing over it in different densities to create the effect of modeling. Silk thread was also used to embroider areas of skin and hair (mostly disintegrated).
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RELATED WORKS
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CITATIONS
Young, Bonnie. "Opus Anglicanum." The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin 29, no. 7 (1971): 291-98. Accessed December 20, 2020.
page number: p. 291-298
url: www.jstor.org/stable/3258645
Staniland, Kay. Embroiderers. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1991.
page number:
url:
Monnas, Lisa. 1994. "Opus Anglicanum and Renaissance Velvet: The Whalley Abbey Vestments". Textile History 25:1.
page number: p. 3-28
url:
Bergemann, Uta-Christiane. “Serial Production of Embroidered Orphreys in the Late Middle Ages.” in Wetter, Evelin, and Michael Bangert. Iconography of Liturgical Textiles in the Middle Ages. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2010.
page number: p. 171-182
url:
Heard, Kate. “‘All holie companye of heaven’: Uniformity and Individuality in the Iconography of Late Medieval English Orphreys.” In Wetter, Evelin, and Michael Bangert. Iconography of Liturgical Textiles in the Middle Ages. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2010.
page number: p. 155-162
url:
Browne, Clare Woodthorpe, Glyn Davies, M. A. Michael, and Michaela Zöschg. English Medieval Embroidery: Opus Anglicanum. 2016.
page number:
url:
Michael, M. A. The Age of Opus Anglicanum. 2016.
page number:
url:
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IMAGES
web: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1947.2/1947.2_web.jpg
print: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1947.2/1947.2_print.jpg
full: https://openaccess-cdn.clevelandart.org/1947.2/1947.2_full.tif